Monday 31 March 2014

Paperboy Kitchen

320 Little Lonsdale St 
Melbourne, VIC 
3000

I miss lunch. When I was still at uni, I took for granted the privilege of being able to pop into the city between lectures (or heck, skipping lectures altogether) for a delectable lunch of whatever I happened to be feeling like on that day. Now that I’m working full-time however, my lunches are restricted to whatever I can be bothered to make, or disgusting and disgustingly overpriced food from the few cafes near work - $3.5 for a single over-salted rice paper roll, anyone? So what better way to spend my day off than to visit the new kid on the block – Paperboy Kitchen – for a nourishing Vietnamese meal?




Space is a valuable commodity in the CBD, and Paperboy Kitchen makes the most of what room it has by turning the small restaurant into a character-filled canteen. Though you’re free to sit down for a bite if you can find a spare seat, most people opt to have their food made to go. The menu is succinct, with just 5 items served either in a traditional Vietnamese roll, or as a rice noodle salad – your choice.



Drinking Coconut

It was a muggy day, and though there were gourmet colas and ginger ale on offer, I couldn’t resist a fresh Drinking Coconut, served whimsically with a cocktail umbrella and a swirly straw. I love the use of little animal figurines instead of table numbers, though I wish we had gotten the dinosaur instead of the zebra. 


Lemongrass Meatball Bowl ($11.5)

Lemongrass Meatball Bowl ($11.5)

For all of you who are sick of having nothing but rice noodles at the bottom of your Vietnamese salad, Paperboy Kitchen is your answer. Our Lemongrass Meatball Bowl ($11.5) was mouthfuls after mouthfuls of fresh veggies, herbs, and slippery noodles, tossed through with sriracha mayo and a splash of vinegar. The light, healthful salad was augmented by a scattering of nutty sesame seeds, and a skewer of slightly dry, but smoky and flavoursome meatballs.


Slow Cooked Beef Roll ($11)

The sandwiches here are not your regular Vietnamese Rolls. Take our Slow Cooked Beef Roll ($11) for example; the beef was lovingly simmered in a barely-bubbling broth for over 6 hours, resulting in luscious, melt-in the mouth slices of meat to be stuffed in a baguette with a myriad of crunchy herbs and veggies, and drizzled with sriracha mayo. On the side is a shot of concentrated pho stock, intensely umami in flavour, good to sip but even better to dip the sandwich in. Move over French dip sandwiches – slow cooker beef and French onion soup has nothing on the bright herbs and succulent meats in this roll!

Paperboy Kitchen was destined for success the moment it opened its doors. The menu may be limited, but what they have, they do incredibly well. It’s the perfect dining destination for those who are short on time, but in need of a healthy, satisfying, and flavoursome meal; it’s such a shame they’re not open for dinner (hint hint)!

Rating: 13.5/20 – ending noodle tyranny.
This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.
Sweet and Sour Fork dined as a guest of Paperboy Kitchen. 

Paperboy Kitchen on Urbanspoon

Thursday 27 March 2014

Circa the Prince - Hop Harvest Degustation

2 Acland St 
St Kilda, VIC 
3182

So I while back, I found a very interesting email sitting in my inbox, inviting me to a Hop Harvest Degustation. It didn’t take a genius to work out that this was a combination of beer tasting and fine dining at Circa the Prince, and despite not being much of a beer fan, I was eager to learn more about the golden brew, and any food is good food in my books. I am SO there. 


Photo Courtesy of SUPPLIED

Spanner Crab Cracker with Avocado and Crayfish Emulsion/Duck Liver Parfait with Brioche and Pepper Gel 

There was no messing around with these guys; the moment we stepped into the intimate dining room festooned with bushels of flowers and plants, we were handed a tall, frothy goblet of James Squire 150 Lashes Pale Ale. Well, everyone else was, but I was more than a little under the weather that day, and opted instead for a glass of water. I was told afterwards that it was light and malty – very easy drinking.

To go with the beer were roving platters of canapés, including a delicate Spanner Crab Cracker with Avocado and Crayfish Emulsion in a crisp wafer shell, and an oily Duck Liver Parfait with Brioche and Pepper Gel that melted sweetly in the mouth. 


Photo Courtesy of SUPPLIED


Once we were all settled in front of our beautifully presented menus, our hosts for the night introduced themselves. To call them beer enthusiasts would be putting it lightly. Peter, the master brewer, will judge 60 different beers at a brewing competition, before heading down to the pub for a pint. Tim, aka the beer pilgrim, spends his days travelling the country in search of not only a good brew, but also ways of using hops, the key ingredient of beer, in new and interesting ways. Think hops bruschetta and hops sausages.  Their passion was palpable.


Heritage Beetroots Roasted in Hops with Barley Curd and Malted Onions

Our starter was a light but intricate starter of Heritage Beetroots Roasted in Hops with Barley Curd and Malted Onions. Beyond the soft, sweet chunks of beetroot were malty crisps of onion and granules of toasted barley, held together with hops-infused curd. Though delicate, the dish had a substantial earthiness to it that managed to hold the pungency of the hops.

To go with our first course were two beers – a light and malty Beck’s, and a sharper, herbaceous bottle of Urquell



Between courses I munched through warm rolls of bread, slathered in salted butter with a sprinkle of black truffle. I wasn’t entirely sold on the mild butter, but I found the dark, heavily baked rolls to be different but very enjoyable, its smokiness almost coffee-like in aroma.  


Blue Cod with Summer Leeks, Truffle and Roasted Hop Broth 

The entree – Blue Cod with Summer Leeks, Truffle and Roasted Hop Broth – was more substantial than it looked. The firm, white fish swam in a broth reminiscent of wild spinach, intermingling with sweet summer leek and a segment of juicy mushroom.  It was a warm dish, despite the delicate flavours.


Spitfire Kentish Ale/James Squire The Constable Copper Ale

I had a great experience with the beers paired up with this course – James Squire The Constable Copper Ale, and Spitfire Kentish Ale, both British in origin. Whilst they both started off sweet, the James Squire left a crisp citric aftertaste, whilst the Spitfire quickly turned bitter yet refreshing. However the truly remarkable change occurred after the cod, with both beers becoming miraculously clean and dewy, accompanying the firm fish perfectly. 


Robbins Island Wagyu with Mustard, Marrows and Onion Juice

I was really looking forward to the main of Robbins Island Wagyu with Mustard, Marrows and Onion Juice, and the flavours lived up to the elegant visuals. The exquisitely medium-rare wagyu was tender and clean, soaking up the caramelised fragrance of the roasted onions. Best of all was the rich, tangy dollop of mustard and marrow sauce, bringing out all the fattiness of the beef. 



As promised, the beers became heavier as the meal progressed. The well known Little Creatures Pale Ale was a harmonious balance of sweet and bitter, with a strong, floral scent of roses. The Knappsteine Reserve was much more showy than the Little Creatures, it’s sweet tropical flavours balanced out with a bold bitterness. 


Chocolate Mousse with Cherries, Cocoa and Shortbread 

There was no way a dessert of Chocolate Mousse with Cherries, Cocoa and Shortbread could go wrong. On a backdrop of thick, rich mousse was a potpourri of ingredients, from loud biscuit crumbs, to dollops of cream, and even whole blueberries and cherries. This ticked all the boxes – flavour, texture, and fun all in one. 


Feral Hop Hog

But what sort of beer does one serve with dessert? After an entire meal learning the virtues of balancing sweet and bitter, I thought I could guess, and I wasn’t too far from the mark. The Seven Sheds St Ella IPA was malty, but packed a guttural punch of bitter hops. The Feral Hop Hog was along the same lines, but more refreshing than the Seven Sheds thanks to the bitter pine aroma infused into it. They’re not my cup of tea, but I definitely get the appeal. 


Photo Courtesy of SUPPLIED

There was a lot of boozing going on throughout the night, but it was a very classy affair, despite what you may think 9 different beers and a crowd may equal. The food was enjoyable and very well thought out to complement the beers, though the portions were miniscule. Granted, I was probably the only person in the room who wasn’t sloshing with fluid by the end of the night. But most importantly, the two hours I spent with Peter and Tim at Circa the Prince served to change my opinion on beers entirely. I am definitely sold on the idea of matching beers with food; it is no longer a child to be put to bed so the adults can talk, but has a solid place at the table with the wines. Though I probably won’t partake, ever since that incident with the sangria and the almost-throwing-up (and that was just ONE glass), I hope to see beers accompanying meals in the near future as more than just a pre-meal refreshment.

Rating: 13/20 – beer – all grown up.
This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.
Sweet and Sour Fork dined as a guest of Circa the Prince.

Circa, the Prince on Urbanspoon

Monday 24 March 2014

Nieuw Amsterdam

106-112 Hardware Street 
Melbourne, VIC 
3000
http://www.nieuwamsterdam.com.au/

I haven’t been this excited for a long time. Every now and then, a restaurant will come along and it will take all of two seconds to send me into hyperactive overdrive. Case in point: when Chris dug up Nieuw Amsterdam from the depths of Urbanspoon. Within the hour, I had trawled through every photo, comment, and review that I could get my grubby hands on. Though diminutive, I quickly decided that I wanted to try everything on the menu (which I had committed to memory by then), no exceptions, and a visit was set up ASAP. 




Despite only having been on the scene few months, taking the place of an old Irish pub, it was fully booked on Saturday night. Luckily the sympathetic waiter managed to get us a spot for 6pm, on the proviso that our buttocks were out by 7:30. As we had the ballet to go to afterwards, everything worked out perfectly. Well, not quite perfectly, as we were drenched with torrential rain on our way to the Arts Centre, but that’s not a story worth telling. 





Nieuw Amsterdam is set up over 2 storeys, the lower of which housed a lusty little cocktail bar, and the upstairs being the dark and intimate restaurant that was half steakhouse and half bistro. More importantly though, the air was permeated with the smell of smoked meats. Not that this came as a surprise – Nieuw Amsterdam specialises in American-styled comfort food (albeit with a classier spin), including a healthy selection of protein from the grill.   


Bread and Butter

The waiters went quickly about seducing us with a plate of hot sourdough (made in house – of course) and creamy butter that soaked the fluffy, salty bread with a layer of gold. I’ve hardly had a better serve of bread and butter, and we were left hoping that the rest of the meal was just as brilliant.


Pork Trotter and Ham Hock Nuggets (8pcs, $14 - half serve shown)

Chris and I have an illicit little love affair with chicken nuggets, so it was a no-brainer for us to order the much classier and luxurious Pork Trotter and Ham Hock Nuggets (8pcs, $14 – half serve shown). These fried little darlings consisted of succulent, gelatinous shreds of ham, sandwiched between the caramelised sweetness of burnt onion jam, and the tangy fruitiness of compressed apple. Though simple, it was incredibly delicious, and every element jumped out, before blending harmoniously into each other. I was especially impressed with the burnt onion jam – it tasted exactly like fried onions! 


Chicken Waffles (3pcs, $15 - half serve shown)

I’ve never had fried chicken with waffles, and though I was curious to try the all-American classic, today was not the day. The Chicken Waffles (3pcs, $15 – half serve shown) at Nieuw Amsterdam were in a different class altogether. The chewy waffle squares were stacked high with chicken terrine and smooth, sweet pate, crowned with a shard of chicken skin. It would’ve been delicious as it is, but the small drop of sweet orange jam tipped it over the edge, mingling with the thick spread of pate for a lush, decadent mouthful. I had forgotten all about the bread and butter by this point, which is saying something indeed. 


Southern Style Pork Belly Chops ($21)

With the restaurant smelling as it did, there was no way we could not order something from the grill. Our poison for the day was a pot of Southern Style Pork Belly Chops ($21), served up in generous chunks with a drizzle of sweet gravy. The meat was smoky and succulent with a hint of aniseed sweetness, the richness of the slightly fatty meat balanced by tangy spiced sauerkraut and mellow apple puree. And you know what topped it all off? Huge pieces of pork crackling. I’m not even going to talk about the brittle, crunchy slices of heaven; I’ll just let those two words do all the talking. Pork. Crackling


New York Clam Chowder ($20)

We finished up our mains with an impressive rendition of New York Clam Chowder ($20). The clams were fat and plump, soaked copiously in the thick cream sauce. And if that wasn’t enough, the clams were hidden under a scattering of fatty, smoky bacon, lending its rich aroma to the fluffy potatoes and diced vegetables. The overall effect was an incredibly delicious dish that left us scraping the plate. Just serve this up with a loaf of good bread and leave me and the chowder alone.

Our meal was sheer perfection, from the waiters who treated us like friends from the moment we stepped through the door, to the meal that was somehow both comforting yet extremely exciting. It was just past 7pm by this point, so we didn’t have time to have dessert. Not that I’m too upset about that – I’ll be back very, very soon.

Rating: 16.5/20 – amsterdam pleasures.
This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Nieuw Amsterdam on Urbanspoon

Thursday 20 March 2014

Radio Mexico

11 Carlisle Street 
St Kilda, VIC 
3182

Sometimes the impromptu decisions are the best ones. After a pharmacy party that involved a cake the size of a small table, I decided that I couldn’t do our pre-planned burgers for dinner. And because I had Thai food just the previous week, I decided on my other go-to cuisine for when I’m feeling a bit bleh – Mexican.



One thing I love about working full time is the extra money I have to spend on food. Whilst Radio Mexico was on the slightly more pricey side just a few months back, it’s now almost pocket change. Like many reviews promised, the restaurant was buzzing, pumping, whatever you want to call it on a sunny Friday afternoon. There are plenty of food options on offer, but even more drinks, with margheritas and tequila taking centre stage. And all the Mexican beer you could chug (chug chug chug). 




The inside of Radio Mexico is more or less a restaurant-bar, but there’s a gorgeous deck outside that’s closer to a beer garden. It peers out onto one of the more colourful streets of St Kilda, and everyone is crammed shoulder to shoulder, jubilant with the end of the week. Everyone except us, because we were stuck at first aid training all weekend, but at least now we know what to do if someone chokes on their burrito. 


Guacamole ($9)

The Guacamole ($9) has received rave reviews all ‘round, but I love the green dip so much that I would’ve ordered it regardless. It turned out to be the best guacamole I’ve ever had, perfectly smooth with an immaculate balance of creamy and zesty, blended through with coriander and lime juice. The hand-cut chips on the side were worthy chariots for the avocado – thick, crunchy, and satisfying. 


Elotes ($6, 2pcs)

Elotes ($6, 2pcs)

Our beautiful guacamole dip was followed by a pair of the classic Mexican street snack – Elotes ($6, 2pcs), aka corn on the cob. There’s just the merest sprinkle of briny salt on top, but the juicy, charred sweetness of the corn was enough of a treat by itself. 


Potato and Chorizo Quesadilla ($9, 2 pcs)

Chris scoffed in indignation at the size of our Potato and Chorizo Quesadilla ($9, 2pcs), but I personally thought the two taco-sized pieces were the perfect size for sharing. Whilst not exciting, it was a sustaining mix of gooey cheese and soft potato. Shame about the microscopic flecks of chorizo. 


Barbacoa Taco/Carne Asada Taco ($6.5ea)

And of course, Tacos ($6.5ea). The Barbacoa Taco was true to its promise of slow-cooked lamb, the hunk of meat fall-apart tender and juicy. Unfortunately there wasn’t much else to the taco aside from the lamb and the faint bitterness of the purple cabbage. Our Carne Asada Taco was regrettably bland and disappointing; the steak was tough and chewy, and the shredded cheese on top seemed almost accidental. 


Pescado De La Casa Taco ($6.5)

Our final taco, the Pescado De La Casa Taco came out in a riot of colour, but the flavours once again fell flat. There was nothing wrong with the lightly grilled fillet of white fish, nor the black beans and corn salsa, but the entire concoction traipsed past light and fresh and into bland and dull. Overall the tacos were a bit of a disappointment, though we definitely couldn’t argue with the soft, sweet corn tortillas, nor the generous amount of topping. 



Overall, I would call Radio Mexican a definite success. The food may be a tad hit and miss, but it’s never too far from the mark, and you certainly can’t argue with the ambience, provided you didn’t get stuck on a little niche because a certain food blogger chose lighting over comfort.

Rating: 13.5/20 - #foodbloggerlyf.
This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Radio Mexico on Urbanspoon

Monday 17 March 2014

BrimCC Organic Soup and Japanese Cafe

601 Little Collins St 
Melbourne, VIC 
3000

It’s always good to have a backup plan, because when you go out to eat at three different restaurants a week, it’s inevitable that you’ll eventually find yourself standing before dark windows and an unexpected ‘closed’ sign. Unfortunately we don’t practice what we preach, and were left out in the cold after trekking out to South Wharf to find our dining destination cruelly closed. After a lot of thinking, we decided to revisit an old favourite, BrimCC Organic Soup and Japanese Cafe.





I know I say this about a lot of restaurants, but I’ve never meant it more than I do now – eating at BrimCC is like eating in the kitchen of a loved one. The room is filled with the warm scent of curry and soup, and the menu is done scrap-book style, the images taken by the owner and stuck lovingly onto brown paper pages. The entire restaurant only seats a dozen people, yet they manage to have an entire wall feature of fan-mail. 


Curry Salad Set ($9.5) - Beef Curry/Tofu Salad

BrimCC does one of my favourite curries ever, but what I love even more is the option to lighten things up with the Curry Salad Set ($9.5) – a half-sized curry with a side of salad. We’ve never dared order the full sized curry, as the half-serve is already a meal on its own. Though it’s not the most robustly flavoured, the beef curry with its thick, hearty sauce, mixed with rice, is as rib-sticking as comfort food gets. On the side we had a tofu salad, a simple mix of garden veggies and fried tofu given an Asian twist with crunchy shredded daikon, and a light soy dressing.


Yakitori Don ($10)

Though we usually stick to the soups and curries, I chose to have the Yakitori Don ($10) this time, in the spirit of adventure. Even before it reached our table, I could smell the chicken’s aroma wafting over, carrying with it the nuttiness of sesame seeds and the sharpness of scallions. The generous fillets of chicken were grilled with a rich, savoury marinade, mingling with sticky mouthfuls of rice and gently wilted spinach. It was a scrumptious yet nourishing meal. 



BrimCC hasn’t changed at all in the last 3 years. The feel-good food, doled out generously into huggable bowls, never misses the mark; the chunky soups are especially fabulous. You can really taste the organic without paying the ridiculous premium most places demand. Be careful with BrimCC; visit once, and you’ll be roped in for life!

Rating: 14/20 – brimming with love
This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

BrimCC Organic Soup and Japanese cafe on Urbanspoon