Gumshara Ramen

Shop 211 25-29 Dixon St 
Haymarket, NSW 2000

I may be a stolid Melbournian, but there is no denying that Sydney has its perks. The first one is ramen – Gumshara Ramen to be precise, serving up what’s almost unanimously agreed to be the best ramen in Sydney.

Located in an unglamorous food court that’s nevertheless a mecca for lovers of Asian cuisine, the small store front gives but a glimpse of what’s going on behind the scenes. Hundreds of kilos of pork bones in metal vats were slowly being reduced into a thick stock over not hours, but days.

Tonkotsu Ramen Noodle ($10.5)

Chris opted for just a plain bowl of Tonkotsu Ramen Noodle ($10.5). Now, the menu said that the soup was ‘thick’, but we weren’t prepared for just how gelatinous it was. The pork stock was so unctuous that it clung to the noodles, and almost solidified in the mouth. It was immensely gratifying, but also incredibly rich, and we had trouble finishing it. The pork and toppings weren’t anything special, but they got the job done. 

Garlic Tonkotsu Ramen Noodle ($11.5) with Soft Boiled Egg ($1.5)

Garlic Tonkotsu Ramen Noodle ($11.5) with Soft Boiled Egg ($1.5)

I like my ramen with a good hit of garlic, so the Garlic Tonkotsu Ramen Noodle ($11.5) with Soft Boiled Egg ($1.5) was just what the doctor ordered. Exactly the same as the tonkotsu ramen, but for a slick of garlic oil and a scattering of roasted garlic on top (and a soft boiled egg – you can’t have ramen without a perfect gooey egg) , it is perfect for those of you who like noodles with a little more oomph.

Gumshara ramen still isn’t quite as good as what I’ve been lucky enough to eat in Japan, but it comes pretty darn close. With its ridiculously thick pork stock and selection of self-serve pickles and condiments, it is a little slice of ramen heaven – lucky Sydney-siders!

Rating: 15/20 – ramen heaven.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

MoVida Sydney

50 Holt St 
Surry Hills, NSW 2010

http://www.movida.com.au/sydney/

This is why I came to Sydney. Ok maybe Chris’s 21^st and our anniversary and having some down-time together had something to do with it, but like any foodie, I travel to eat. And whilst I’ve had some great meals lined up, the one I was most excited for was MoVida Sydney, the newest member of the MoVida family by the Spanish genius, Frank Camorra. 

MoVida in Sydney is just like the MoVidas in Melbourne, yet not. The square bar and open-ish kitchen are still there, the dining room furnished with the same high tables and leather banquet chairs. The atmosphere however is much more one of fine dining, and significantly less exuberant than its Melbourne counterparts. The staff are also more restrained and professional – polite and friendly, but minus the jokes and banter. 

Complimentary Bread

I always forget about the complimentary bread at MoVida, and am subsequently twice as happy about it. The bread today was a dense heel of sourdough that’s very strong in flavour, served with reliably excellent olive oil.  

Croqueta de Jamon Iberico ($8.5, 2 pieces)

We can never go past the croquetas at MoVida, as they are always impeccably fried with a decadently creamy interior, and the ones on offer today were the Croqueta de Jamon Iberico ($8.5, 2 pieces). 

Croqueta de Jamon Iberico ($8.5, 2 pieces)

Just like we had expected, the golden shell cracked open to reveal a velvety center that tastes of lightly-spiced mashed potatoes and cheese. There was disappointingly little jamon in the croqueta, but then again, priced at $1/gram, that stuff doesn’t exactly grow on trees. 

Pimiento ($6.5ea)

The Pimiento ($6.5ea) was another deep-fried delight, though maybe not as magnificent as the croquetas. Lightly fried and stuffed with bacalao, aka dried and salted cod, this formed a harmonious little mouthful consisting of a balance of creamy, briny, and the faint sweetness of the piquillo peppers. 

Higado de Pollo ($16.5)

When I saw the Higado de Pollo ($16.5) on the specials menu, I had to have it. I’m a big lover of foie gras on the worst of days, and foie gras parfait with chicken liver by MoVida? Count me in. 

Higado de Pollo ($16.5)

Served with a bottomless supply of warm oat and orange toast, the buttery spread was a decadent backdrop for the garden of condiments. The bitter radish, tangy pickles, and citric kumquats were given free rein to play and mingle against the delicate airiness of the foie gras. 

Cecina ($24.5)

It’s a complete travesty that I have visited MoVida a total of 5 times, and never tried their most famous dish – the Cecina ($24.5), winner of The Age Good Food Dish of the Year in 2007. When I picture wagyu, I think a fat chunk of steak, charred on the grill. The cecina is nothing like that. Air-cured and sliced so thinly that the pattern of the plate was visible through it, this rendition of wagyu is served with the decadent accompaniments of truffle foam, olive oil, and a poached egg.

Cecina ($24.5)

But wait, there’s more! The Cecina is also a DIY dish, and we were instructed to break the egg, before mixing it in with the truffle foam and beef – to make a good mess of it, in a nutshell. 

Cecina ($24.5)

What you have in the end is essentially fatty slices of beef, covered in creamy egg yolk and frothy cauliflower foam, augmented with the aroma of truffles and olive oil. With each bite, my eyes rolled back into my head at the sheer sensuality of it all. 

Cordero ($18.5)

I was so over-indulged by the cecina that I couldn’t eat nearly as much of the Cordero ($18.5) as I had wanted. This was a much more rustic affair than paper-thin slices of wagyu. Two fatty pieces of lamb breast, unctuous and caramelised from slow-cooking, melted on the tongue in a perfect burst of sweet gaminess. The bed of peas and jamon provided an excellent foil of freshness.

Flan ($14.5)

We were full, but never too full for the Flan ($14.5), arguably our favourite dessert from MoVida. Though simple, this is a masterpiece of custard and egg. Faultlessly rich and silky, it melts in the mouth accompanied by a light caramel sauce. Served on the side are three crumbly fingers of aniseed pastries, but they were eaten with scorn compared to the flan.

Exactly 10 years from the opening of the very first MoVida in Hosier Lane, it’s good to see that Frank Camorra has not lost his touch. Just like all his other restaurants, MoVida Sydney is both refreshingly unique and instantly recognisable. The food here is seriously good without costing an arm and a leg, and I would recommend it to anyone with an empty (or even full!) stomach.

Rating: 16.5/20 – movida mad.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Mesa Verde

Level 6, 252 Swanston St
Melbourne, VIC 3000

http://mesaverde.net.au/

It came in the night. With no fanfare and hardly any warning, except for a short media release in my inbox, Mesa Verde became the newest addition to Curtin House, boasting Mexican treats and an extensive drinks list all the way up on the 6^th floor.

Like most inhabitants of Curtin House, Mesa Verde is first and foremost a bar. The restaurant itself has a distinctly western feel with lots of wood and lazy ceiling fans, topped off with mismatching oil lamps, and cowboy films projected onto a blank wall. And whilst we were here for the tacos, most people seemed keener on sampling the 240 types of tequila on offer. 

Baja Fish Taco ($8)/Ox Tongue Taco ($6.5)

Speaking of tacos, we started our Mexican fiesta with an Ox Tongue Taco ($6.5), and a Baja Fish Taco ($8), the latter being from the specials menu. The tacos had a generous amount of filling held in a soft tortilla; the juicy cubes of ox tongue were served with a grassy salsa verde and tangy pickles, and the crisp baton of fish was simply garnished with crisp iceberg lettuce and a drizzle of spicy chipotle mayo. 

Grilled Corn ($6)

I ordered the Grilled Corn ($6) with a healthy dose of anticipation, and these were fine specimens indeed. The sweet, charred kernels of corn were rolled in a peppery chipotle mayo and shavings of queso fresco. The creamy sweetness was spiced up with the addition of smoky chipotle powder, and a squeeze of lime. 

Lamb and Green Olive Empanada ($6.5)

Chris the Crazy doesn’t like grilled corn, so he had a Lamb and Green Olive Empanada ($6.5) instead. The crescent of pastry came out flaky and piping hot, filled with a lamb mince that was a tad dry but flavoursome. Not sure where the green olive featured though.

Bourbon Glazed Pork Ribs ($20)

Bourbon Glazed Pork Ribs ($20)

Most of the larger plates sounded delicious, but we couldn’t resist the Bourbon Glazed Pork Ribs ($20). The succulent rack of ribs was sweet, sticky, and finger-lickingly good. And whilst Chris only had eyes for the protein, I loved the crisp, piquant salad of radishes and watercress on the side.

Potatoes al Horno ($9)

To go with our ribs, we ordered a plate of Potatoes al Horno ($9), an intriguingly named dish that turned out to be a simple serve of roast potatoes – not that there’s anything wrong with that! They were completely delectable, with a crisp skin and fluffy center, garnished with sea salt and brittle sage leaves.

Mesa Verde is a worthy addition to the ever-growing Mexican scene in Melbourne. It’s not cheap, but let’s not pretend that Mexican is a particularly affordable option around here anyway. For the price, you get a selection of food that won’t leave anyone complaining, countless ways to get sloshed, and no queue to boot – for now.  

Rating: 14/20 – green pastures.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Gelato Messina

237 Smith St 
Fitzroy, VIC

http://www.gelatomessina.com/

‘The gelato was so good that I cried.’ I don’t remember the last time I’ve received a recommendation that glowing, but after two friends who came back from Sydney babbling like religious converts, as well as the influx of sunshine, I decided it was high time for me to visit the gelataria that makes what has been voted Australia’s best gelato – Gelato Messina. 

This isn’t actually my first experience with Gelato Messina. The first run-in occurred at the Night Noodle Markets, where I had a peanut and coconut sundae, and was immediately enchanted. And 10 minutes later I had penned in a visit to the newly opened store in Fitzroy, to be visited as soon as humanely possible. 

I need a Valium. Upon entering the surprisingly large and slick gelataria, the hillocks after hillocks of ice cream turned me into a child on amphetamines. The desserts rose in creamy waves and swirls, studded with all manner of ingredients, from brownies to croissants to apple pie, and even some alcoholic concoctions for the grown-ups (Mojito, Jack Daniel’s with Smoked Chocolate). And with more than 40 flavours on offer (including a blackboard of specials) at $4/scoop, $6/2 scoops, and $7/3 scoops, I was ready to go nuts. 

Breakfast of Champions (special)/Number Two (special)

With the Breakfast of Champions (special), it was all in the name. With a yoghurt gelato that tasted like creamy, tangy frozen yoghurt, mixed in with plum jam and large pieces of croissant, this was indeed a champion of a breakfast.

The unfortunately named but scrumptious Number Two (special) took my pick of the day right at the start. The decadently rich and nutty peanut gelato housed large pieces of chewy chocolate brownies, swirled through with sticky dulche de leche. I may have cried a little at this point too. 

Bounty/Tiramisu

The Bounty was a creamy coconut gelato with chewy bits of chocolate and coconut mixed in, and was just like the chocolate bar, only more delicious.

Despite sounding great on paper, the Tiramisu was quite underwhelming. It tasted like a simple coffee gelato, albeit a good one.

Coconut and Lychee/Salted Caramel and White Chocolate

The Coconut and Lychee was another winner. The sweet nuttiness of the coconut melded beautifully with the floral fruitiness of the lychee, making for a great tropical treat.

The Salted Caramel and White Chcoolate is the most popular gelato at Messina, but like the tiramisu, it was delicious but underwhelming, featuring nothing but a salty-sweet caramel taste. 

Mojito (special)/Apple Pie/Messy Juliette (special)

And because we still weren’t done, we had three more scoops of ice cream. The first one was the Mojito (special), a refreshingly tart sorbet with a strong hit of rum and mint.

The Apple Pie is another delicious classic at Messina – creamy apple gelato blended with apple pie pieces, for a summer version of the warm and spicy dessert.

Our final scoop of gelato for the day was the Messy Juliette (special), a sugar-and-spice-and-all-things-nice blend of strawberry gelato, whipped vanilla cream, and Marsala sponge. Whilst not overwhelmingly good, it was a satisfying ending to the gelato adventure that had me thinking of birthday cake.

Gelato Messina certainly lived up to the hype. With more than three dozen flavours and ever-changing specials, it is probably one of, if not the best place in Australia to get your gelato fix.

Rating: 16/20 – gelato and a valium.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Hammer & Tong

Rear 412 Brunswick St
Fitzroy, VIC 3065

http://www.hammerandtong.com.au/

I’m not much of a trend person. Clothing? Comfortable and timeless please. TV shows? I’d rather read. Fad diets? Pass the ice cream. Anyway that’s my excuse for taking the best part of a year to visit Hammer & Tong. But in my defence, with new delicacies popping up around Melbourne on a weekly basis, plus a huge to-eat backlog, I’m pretty proud of myself for making this visit before the New Year rolled around. 

Hammer & Tong was the new ‘it’ thing earlier this year, and whilst the hype has died down a little, the adoration certainly hasn’t. We were lucky enough to visit on a cold Thursday morning, and were immediately seated at a table in the long, industrially chic cafe. I especially liked the hanging pot plants. 

Soft Shell Crab Burger ($16)

If Hammer & Tong has a signature dish, the Soft Shell Crab Burger ($16) is it, and it’s not very hard to see why. Perched between shells of soft brioche, an entire crab quietly waits to be devoured. Sriracha mayo and delicate cabbage slaw compliments the crispy crustacean, with a few sprigs of invigorating coriander thrown in. Put that together, and every mouthful is a potpourri of textures and flavours, delightful to the last bite. 

Spring Peppers, Chorizo, Fried Egg, Spring Onion, Parsley on Sourdough ($19)

Equally as exciting was the Spring Peppers, Chorizo, Fried Egg, Spring Onion, Parsley on Sourdough ($19). Like the name, the dish itself is as intricate as it is humble, a beautifully envisioned meal made from nothing but pantry staples, and a medley from the garden.

Spring Peppers, Chorizo, Fried Egg, Spring Onion, Parsley on Sourdough ($19)

And it is a cracker of a breakfast. It is a celebration of Spring; a variety of peppers that were sweet, spicy, and smoky in turn; one long baton of leek, caramelised and covered in golden yolk; a mixture of sprightly greens from the garden. And though not strictly an ode to the season, three outstanding chorizos that were bold and chunky, with great depth of flavour. It just goes to show how exquisite yet effortless food can be, when high quality, in-season produce is used.

It takes a really good meal for me to re-realise just how lucky I am to be living in Melbourne, and Hammer & Tong had me waxing lyrical before I was even halfway through. With an ever-changing menu that boasts so much good produce and innovative combinations, Hammer & Tong is a brilliant addition to the brunch scene, even by Melbourne standards.

Rating: 16/20 – best brunch of 2013.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Plus 5

37 South Wharf Road 
South Wharf, VIC 3006

http://www.plus5bar.com.au/

‘Tis the season to be jolly! And whilst turkey and Christmas cake is all well and good, sometimes you need something a little... stronger. That’s where Plus 5 comes in, a new restaurant-but-mainly-bar on South Wharf that can please even the most discerning of connoisseurs with their selection of cocktails. 

Replacing the similarly-named Shed 5, Plus 5 is a large warehouse that opens out to both the promenade and the waterfront, giving merry-goers a summery space to enjoy their cocktails from the extensive bar. And to wash down all that booze – a variety of charcuterie, tapas, and pizzas. 

Apple Mojito ($12)/Rose Lemonade ($12)

It’s no secret by now that I can’t hold my alcohol, but the lovely staff left us well-catered for with a pair of refreshing mocktails. I absolutely adored the Apple Mojito ($12), a classic blend of apple juice and sugar syrup with fresh lime and mint, served over crushed ice. It was as delicious as it sounds, and I was almost tempted to ask for a splash of rum in it to get the full mojito experience.

Apple Mojito ($12)/Rose Lemonade ($12)

Meanwhile, Chris enjoyed the Rose Lemonade ($12) a lot more (due to his dislike of mint). Served tall with a single rose petal on top, this concoction of rose syrup and lemonade was a beautifully tart and floral drop. 

Wasabi Almonds

To go with our drinks, we were served a complimentary bowl of Wasabi Almonds to nibble on. These are definitely the best starter I’ve ever had, the crunchy roasted almonds flavoured with just enough wasabi to tingle the tastebuds. Guys, if you aren’t doing this already, package them and sell them by the kilo. 

Chef's Selection of Cured Meats ($22.5)

I couldn’t go past the Chef’s Selection of Cured Meats ($22.5), which on that day consisted of chorizo, wagyu bresola, and prosciutto. Our unanimous favourite was the chorizo, which was dense and meaty with a great pepperiness. The bresola and prosciutto were quite mild, lacking the fattiness that comes with good cured beef, but boasted a silken softness. 

Assorted Bread

To go with our charcuterie, we were given the most adorable little bucket of assorted breads, which included breadsticks, herbed ciabatta, and large brittle crackers studded with sesame. Whilst they weren’t just-baked fresh, the variety was certainly welcome.

Swiss Brown Mushrooms ($10.5)

The tapas selection, whilst short, provided many temptations. So instead of choosing for ourselves, we let our lovely waitress pick for us instead. The first tapas we were served was exactly one I had been eyeing – the Swiss Brown Mushrooms ($10.5). The cast iron pan consisted of juicy mushrooms topped with a fragrant topping of golden breadcrumbs and parmesan, but whilst the flavour combination was timeless, I found the richness of the mushrooms to be lost among the tang of the vinegar. 

Lamb Meatballs ($8)

Chris was just as happy about the selection of Lamb Meatballs ($8) as I was about the mushrooms. The succulent meatballs were moist and moreish, drizzled with thick minted yoghurt. It was the perfect nibble to go with drinks. 

Roasted Salmon Salad ($18.5)

And because our waitress is a responsible grown-up, she made sure that we had some greenery to our meal, in the form of the Smoke Roasted Salmon Salad ($18.5). This was a simple side, consisting of just 4 ingredients – generous chunks of smoked salmon, buttery avocado, crunchy almonds, baby greens – with a scattering of sweet dressing. The elements weren't cohesive per se, but still made for an enjoyable salad overall.  

Ham, Artichoke, Olive, Mushroom, and Mozzarella Pizza ($16, 8 inch)

We topped off our meal with a Ham, Artichoke, Olive, Mushroom, and Mozzarella Pizza ($16, 8 inch). The pizza was spread with a tangy tomato paste, and handfuls of chunky toppings, but it was the base that was the most delectable of all. Thin and crisp with puffy, burnished edges, it made what was a good pizza great.

Plus 5 isn’t so much of a restaurant as it is a bar, where the cocktails (and if you ask me, the attractive staff) are definitely the drawcard. You don’t come here to eat, but at the same time, you certainly won’t be disappointed with the food on offer. At any rate, it is certainly one of the best places to while away a long, hot afternoon, sipping on drink after drink and looking over the Yarra.

Rating: 13.5/20 – nibbles plus 5 cocktails.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Sweet and Sour Fork dined as a guest of Plus 5.